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Location

number two
Redwall Cavern
River Mile 33.2

Cave In

Just around the river bend from Vasey’s Paradise, at mile 33.3, is Redwall Cavern.

I’d seen pictures of it before our trip. In them, it looked to be an immense space, where people played Frisbee inside walls carved out by the river. Explorer and geologist John Wesley Powell thought it a vast amphitheater that could hold about 50,000 people.

But approaching it, I’m not so sure.  It looks deceivingly small. Not much bigger than the other caves we’d seen while floating along this stretch.

But as we tie our rafts to the beach, I can see that it is no small cave.

Frisbee throwers in Redwall Cavern
Two students throw a disc around in Redwall Cavern. Evan Wolf/UC Davis

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Entering Redwall Cavern

As I walk up the sloping beach and enter Redwall Cavern, it seems to just keep going. At the very back of it, about 100 feet deep, geology graduate student Millie Levin’s face is about half an inch from the limestone wall, her fingers feeling its surface.

Many people stand back to look at the Grand Canyon in broad sweeping motions, soaking in its beauty. But it’s highly common on this trip to see students like Millie, their faces inches away from a rock, fingers tracing its ridges, eyes wide open, searching for signs of past life.

Millie is soon joined by forest ecology grad student Allie Weill. Together, they look at marine fossils left here in this rock some 340 million years ago.

two students inspect the walls of Redwall Cavern looking for fossil specimens
Millie Levin and Allie Weill closely inspect marine fossils left in the walls of Redwall Cavern in the Grand Canyon. Photo: Kat Kerlin/UC Davis
Geology graduate student Millie Levin finds what she learned in class come to life in the Grand Canyon. Credit: Joe Proudman/UC Davis
"As we tie our rafts to the beach, I can see that it is no small cave."

Redwall Cavern looks deceptively small from the outside but can hold thousands of people. The UC Davis group played Frisbee, ate lunch and explored fossils in the limestone walls while here. Credit: Joe Proudman/UC Davis

‘I love finding fossils’

“I love finding fossils,’ Millie says. “In geology, it’s usually like, ‘This very slow thing happened, and here’s the result.’ It’s more of an arm wave and not like pointing at it. So I think it’s really satisfying to see something and say, ‘There it is!’ I love that.’

She’s not alone. Nearby, students Roxanne Banker and Kevin Schrecengost are pointing out evidence of coral, signs that this was once part of a warmer ocean.

The Grand Canyon feels about as far away from an ocean as you can get. But there are students here from the UC Davis Bodega Marine Laboratory. When I first arrived, I wondered naively what these marine ecologists would get out of visiting the desert.

The fossils of past marine life embedded in the Grand Canyon are constant reminders of how the ocean and land tie together throughout Earth’s history. We’ll see some really cool marine fossils later in the day when we hike in Nautiloid Canyon.

Nature’s theater

When I turn around from the darkened wall, the cavern perfectly frames the Colorado River and surrounding cliffs. Viewing such a light-drenched scene while still in the darkness is like sitting in a movie theater, only vastly better.

A game of Frisbee does indeed break out. So does a ukulele. In an amphitheater like this, it’s only right to play.

- Kat Kerlin

grey arrow Continue the journey at Stop 5, Nautiloid Canyon

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Next Stop...Nautiloid Canyon